10 Crate-training Tips

Dogs of any age can be crate-trained. Ideally, you would like to crate-train as early as possible, but if you've adopted an adult dog or need to re-train your older dog, it can be done.

I would like to start by assuring you that crate-training is both humane and healthy when done properly. Many top trainers and even veterinarians recommend crate-training for dogs. Wild animals have dens, where parent animals leave their young when they go off hunting. The crate is simply an approximation of the den for domestic dogs. Young puppies learn quickly that the den is safe and warm, and if they drift off to sleep, their "parents" will soon return from the "hunt". Think of the crate as a cozy den for your dog, as opposed to a dog cage, and it will help you to understand better the principle by which it works.

1. Purchase the proper size. The proper size crate is very important. It must be just large enough for your dog to stand, turn, and lie down comfortably, but NO LARGER. For growing puppies, ideally you'll want to get larger and larger crates as they grow. But if you don't want to buy more than one crate, purchase a crate that will be the proper size for your dog when he's fully grown, based on his breed or the size of his parents. Do not assume that a larger crate will be more comfortable than a cozy one. The idea is that your dog will only be crated for sleeping and unwinding, and a larger crate will encourage a dog to move around more, keeping him awake. Also, dogs resist soiling their own den, so if the crate is too large, he may be tempted to soil one end and sleep at the other. Don't be tempted to buy a large, roomy crate.

2. Do not put anything in the crate but the dog. This is also very important! No food. No water. No toys. No chewies. No towels or blankets. No heating pads. Nothing but the dog. Why? Again, because you want the dog to quickly learn to sleep in his crate. Distractions like toys and food will only keep him awake. And towels and blankets, though they sound nice, will only get soiled... encouraging the dog to use his crate as a toilet. Heating pads can be very dangerous, and I don't need to tell you why. Remember, just the dog!

3. Do not acknowledge the dog while he's crated. For the first few days, a puppy will carry on, crying most pitifully when he's put in his crate. This is not because he's confined to a cage, but because he's suffering puppy separation anxiety, which is normal. At first, he'll do this whenever you go away, whether he's crated or not (just ask your neighbors), and you can't very well stay home 24 hours a day. It's a good idea to begin crate training on a weekend, as you're not likely to get much sleep the first few nights. I assure you this is normal, and I encourage you to NOT GIVE IN to his cries, no matter how much you are tempted. Giving in will only lengthen the time it takes to crate-train. He will stop his fussing after a few nights.

4. If you like, you may put the crate near your bed at first. It may be easier for your dog to adjust to crating if he feels your presence nearby. But remember, do not acknowledge him when he's crated. Don't speak to him or try to comfort him, it'll only spur his forlorn howls even more. As he grows used to his crate, you can gradually scoot it to a more convenient spot.

5. Keep the crate in a convenient and comfortable spot. Since the dog will not have bedding in his crate during training, a spot in the house that's temperate is recommended. Also, it needs to be in a quiet place, away from the clamor of the heart of the household. Keep in mind that if there's a fire, you'll want to be able to get to the crate quickly from your bedroom or an outside door.

6. Don't keep a dog crated for more than a total of 10 hours a day. During early housebreaking, you may need to keep you puppy crated up to 12 hours or more per 24 hour period. That's okay (temporarily ONLY) if you spend the rest of the time with him, making sure he gets copious amounts of play, and he's only crated for a few hours at a stretch. Crating is for keeping him out of trouble when you're away or asleep. When you're home and awake, it's your responsibility to spend time with him. Crating is not a dog cage, it's a sleeping den. Dogs normally sleep 12 to 16 hours per day, but that doesn't mean they should spend all that time crated.

7. Never use the crate for punishment. Never put your dog in his crate when he's being punished. Dogs grow to love their crate. It's cozy and quiet, and a great place to sleep or unwind from stress. If you banish a dog there for punishment, he will grow to resent the crate.

8. Keep your dog on a schedule. Feed, exercise, play, and sleep should be kept on a regular schedule. Puppies 8-12 weeks can only hold their bladder for a couple of hours... working their way up as they mature to 8 hours as a healthy adult. See housebreaking. The stricter the schedule you keep, the quicker a dog will adjust to training.

9. If your dog has an accident, simply clean the crate. A dog will rarely soil his crate more than once. But if it happens repeatedly after thorough cleaning with soap and water or enzymatic solution, then perhaps the crate is too large, he's unable to hold it due to young or old age (or illness), or you need to make sure he's gone potty when you take him outside before crating him (refer to housebreaking tips, if this happens more than once).

10. Be patient. Training a dog always takes patience. When crate-training, don't lose your patience or give up too soon. A crate-trained dog is WONDERFUL. You can travel with him (as many hotels allow crated dogs now), and he's safer in a crate than loose in the car. Your puppy won't ruin your carpet, and housebreaking goes much smoother and quicker. Your dog can't tear up the house or yard while you're away, saving your possessions, and perhaps saving his own life!

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